Target’s Latest Designer Collaboration Spotlights The Future of Fashion
No one understands the art of fashion collaboration better than Target. The retail giant has been introducing directional fashion to the masses since 1999 via limited-edition capsules with labels like Rodarte, Anna Sui, and Proenza Schouler. Affordable, accessible, and stylish, these collections have become a rite of passage for designers looking to break through to a broader audience. In the past, these partnerships were focused on one designer and their specific point-of-view, but today’s reveal of the second Designer Dress Collection takes the concept in a new direction. Instead of a single designer, three of the buzziest names of the moment will partake in the collaboration. CFDA/Vogue fashion fund winner Christopher John Rogers, celebrity favorite London brand RIXO, and contemporary powerhouse Alexis will all contribute looks. United by a sense of whimsy and optimism, their dresses reflect the vibe of their respective companies while complementing each other. Offered in sizes XXS to 4X, it’s also the most size-inclusive collection Target has ever undertaken, a milestone that opens the door for everyone to enjoy.
For Rogers, the collaboration’s potential was evident from day one. He wanted to make sure the Target audience got a complete sense of what his eponymous label had to offer. The bombast he’s brought to the red carpet thanks to chameleonic celebrities like Tracee Ellis Ross and Lady Gaga gets plenty of media coverage. Still, Rogers wanted the subtler side of his creative output to shine as well. “I had a very strong idea from the get-go,” he shared on the phone from Brooklyn. “This is the first time we’re partnering with a mass retailer, and we knew that a lot of different types of people would be able to have access to the product, so we wanted to make sure that all the different aesthetic components of the brand were represented. We broke things down into a few different stories.” Rogers’s signature bold florals are presented via belted dresses, flowing skirts, and colors so bright no Instagram filter is required. His expressive take on volume comes through in the silhouette of a floral babydoll with tiers of ruffles that are downright darling.
Though he was tasked with translating his luxurious perspective into affordable pieces, Rogers found the experience gratifying. “We had to keep in mind a certain price point and make sure that a lot of different people would be able to access and enjoy,” he says. “It feels like a step in the right direction to give more people access to the fantasy that we provide within our main collection.” No idea Rogers dreamed up was too big for the Target team. “They were always keen to try and make it work,” he says. “If we came in and said, ‘can we add more fabric to this or make something bigger, get a textile that was shinier or do an even more obnoxious print,’ no matter what their response was ‘yes let’s try it' and that was the most fun part.”
For RIXO’s Henrietta Rix and Orlagh McCloskey, the challenge was taking their ethereal vintage-inspired piece and remixing them. “It’s about feeling like the best version of yourself,” says McCloskey of the brand’s lighthearted POV. “We try and make it all about fun and mixing, not focused on a singular look but how [the clothes] mix with your lifestyle.” The London label’s airy dresses and skirts, beloved by stars like Margot Robbie and Karlie Kloss, are typically constructed from high-grade silks, so finding new fabrications that could be equally appealing took time and effort. “That was a different process but one that was beneficial to learn from,” says McCloskey. “Target has such a huge supply chain, and because they work with such large quantities, they get an incredible value. To see the differences on that side of the business was fascinating.”
The learning curve didn’t stand in the way of Rix and McCloskey’s creativity, if their covetable slip dresses covered in diamond-shaped mixed prints and puff-sleeved shirt dresses for Target are any indication. Still, the size inclusivity was a big part of what made the opportunity feel special. “It educated us on what the customer wants in terms of fit,” says McCloskey. “We are invested in fit and have been wanting to expand for some time, but as a small business, it’s hard to have the resources, especially now. So that part of the process was one of the most important reasons for doing this kind of collaboration.” The global scope Target offered proved enticing. “Normally, it would be impossible to just head into the American market in one go with a retail partner that you trust,” says Rix. “It’s a pinch-me moment for us to be able to go into almost every state in the US overnight, and have everyone be able to experience a bit of RIXO.”
Miami based contemporary label, Alexis was already steeped in Americana, but co-founder Alexis Barbara Isaias’s beachy Target lineup represents how people shop now. “Each of our assortments is different but they complement each other,” says Barbara Isaias. “You can purchase a piece from each designer but have it all work together seamlessly. These are transitional pieces” you can wear them to lunch with sneakers and slides or throw on a strappy sandal and take them to a cocktail party or dinner.” The 24-7 glamour is a concept borrowed from the main line, where tropical florals and gauzy maxi dresses offer vacation vibes year-round to Barbara Isaias.’s clients like Gabrielle Union and Alessandra Ambrosio. “It’s an idea we embrace fully,” says Barbara Isaias., who created mood boards and mockups galore to perfect the look of her Target lineup. “The process was very hands-on,’ she says. “We went to paint shops and picked up cans and cans to create our color story, and created a whole fabric board based on the quality we wanted to use. We even picked up flowers from a local vendor to get the textures and the palette we wanted to show just right.”
Barbara’s frilly tangerine wrap dresses and black and white one-shouldered gowns connect with the moment’s mood through their festive vibe. Reemergence has prompted a renewed optimism in customers and brands. “It’s a perfect time because women are ready to buy new pieces. They have a few places to wear them to now,” says Barbara Isaias. “Now it’s the time to feel beautiful and happy again.”
Given that Target has 20 years’ worth of designer partnerships under its belt, one might assume the thrill of collaboration had dissipated. But according to Jill Sando, the corporation’s executive vice president and chief merchandising officer, it never gets old. “Target has partnered with some of the biggest names in the industry and had the opportunity to introduce our guests to emerging designers who are shaping fashion and culture today,” she says. “With this collection, we’re celebrating three incredibly talented and diverse designers, all while creating our most size-inclusive collection of original, quality dresses that we know our guests will love.”
For many shoppers, capsules like Target’s are one of their first opportunities to experience the labels they’ve loved from afar. “I remember when that Rodarte collection came out and how my friend and I went to Target to check it out,” says Rogers. “It was so cool to see something so high glamour and specific be available to all these different types of people. I hope people feel the same way about our collection and finally get to own a piece for themselves.”